Full Gastronomic Tilt

Summer’s supposed to be hot, but I don’t think it’s supposed to be quite this hot.
Last year, at least, I could get away with roasting a chicken in late July if the fancy struck me.
Not now. Can’t keep enough ice cubes in the freezer, and can’t think of enough reasons to NOT turn on the oven or stove.

But, at least there are plenty of reasons to eat ice cream for breakfast.
Lavender almond milk and chocolate coconut milk ice cream from The Hop, to be specific.

Aren’t those flowers gorgeous?? $3 bouquets from the N. Asheville tailgate market make me smiley.

The happy consequence of alla this hot, hot, heat is that I’m experimenting with mixed drinks. Of course, they don’t stick around long enough for a picture, so you’ll have to take my word for it that they are as pretty as they are tasty.

Please, take my word for it. And make these drinks immediately.

Blueberry-Basil Martini
makes one drink
Fresh is your friend.

3 fresh basil leaves
1/2 cup fresh blueberries
5 large ice cubes
1 oz simple syrup
1.5 oz vodka
1 oz fresh lemon juice
a drop or two of vanilla extract (or use Stoli Vanil)
frozen blueberries

To make simple syrup: combine 1/2 cup sugar and 1/2 cup water in a saucepan and heat over medium-low until the sugar completely dissolves and the mixture is clear. Cool before adding to a drink. Keeps well in the fridge.

Fill a martini glass with ice and set aside.
To a cocktail shaker, add the basil leaves, berries and ice.
Muddle as if your life depends on it, until the ice is broken up into small pieces.
To the muddled mixture, add simple syrup, vodka, vanilla extract, and lemon juice.
Shake until well blended.
Dump the ice out of the martini glass.
Pour mixture through a strainer into the glass, add some frozen berries and serve!

Watermelon Margarita
makes one drink
modified from an Emeril recipe

1 lime wedge
1 cup watermelon puree
2 T simple syrup
1/4 cup fresh lime or lemon juice
1.5 ounces tequila
2 T triple sec
lots of ice

To make the puree: de-seed, chunk and blend watermelon. (4 pounds of watermelon will yield approximately 4 cups puree.)

Fill a margarita or martini glass with ice and set aside.
To a cocktail shaker, combine all ingredients listed above.
Shake until your arms want to fall off and your hands are numb, at least 1 minute.
Dump the ice out of the martini or margarita glass.
Strain into prepared glass and garnish with a lime wedge.

I also have it on good authority that this drink is magnified to an awesome power of ten if you freeze the watermelon chunks before blending them…

Enjoy, and stay cool!

I traveled to Durham this week for work. When I let slip where I was headed, my friends made faces.
Oh…you’re staying in Durham? Not Chapel Hill? Not Raleigh?
*grimace* …Cary?

Nope. Durham.
It seems Durham has a bit of a reputation.
Poor. Run down. Devitalized. Found a non-BBQ sit-down restaurant? Count yourself lucky.

Well. Have I got a secret for you.
Durham is rising like a phoenix out of the ashes. New restaurants are popping up everywhere.
The culinary scene in Durham has focus, creativity, and drive, no doubt an intentional response to the city’s close proximity to more established foodie havens Raleigh and Chapel Hill. The competition is strong. But Durham isn’t doing anything by half-measures, and that was apparent in my short time there last week. I had several uniquely positive experiences, and I’m going to share them here, with you.

Banh’s Cuisine

As I’ve ranted before, it’s a shame that Asheville lacks a good Vietnamese restaurant. Whenever I travel to a larger area, I seek out a pho place and get my fix. I’ve been to Rice and Noodles, Pho Cyclo, Pho Real, and during my last trip to Durham, Saigon Grill. I was excited to hear of another place in Durham, Banh’s, and went to investigate upon arriving Monday evening.

Duke University is just a few clicks away from downtown Durham, and the University District is where we found Banh’s, on a crowded block nestled between a tailor shop and a taqueria. Two doors down was Charlie’s, a biker bar. Unassuming from the front, Banh’s interior was downright desolate at 7:43 on a Monday night. A faded canopy proclaimed “Chinese and Vietnamese food.”

Save for one gentleman picking up his takeout as we entered, the place was empty. A slight woman in a striped shirt and canvas ball cap stood behind the counter. One of those ancient plastic Pepsi pushboards was on the wall, with the standard spring rolls and vegetable fried rice on offer. A sign to the right announced the nightly specials, but there was no pho. No banh mi. No bun. Cash only.

What the pho…k?
On the Pepsi sign was my answer - “More traditional Vietnamese dishes served on Wednesdays and Saturdays.”
Damn.

I looked at my companions. They shrugged, road weary and hungry, though with less of a pho craving. For them, any food would do. So I went ahead and ordered the tofu with ginger, $5.29. “Take out?” Yes, please. The woman nodded, and disappeared behind a door. Immediately, I heard the sizzle of something being fried in hot oil. Now 7:48 PM, I was acutely aware of the fact that Banh’s closed at 8:00 PM. We gathered our chopsticks, soy sauce, and plastic utensils, then sat down to wait on our food, which took a while. I was hoping that meant cook to order. Our food came out just after 8:00 and we beat a hasty retreat, in search of some outdoor seating. An iron cafe table outside of a nearby Ben and Jerry’s sufficed. We sat down and tucked in to our takeout, no doubt amusing the ice cream shop patrons.

To our surprise….it was good! The vegetables were crunchy, the tofu was firm with crisp skin, all bathed in a light sauce with fresh ginger matchsticks generously sprinkled on top. The rice was a little overdone, but hey - it was the end of the night, and likely the bottom of the rice cooker. The dish was far from the greasy, overly sweet-n-soured mess I was expecting.

Fast forward two days, and we’re facing the question of “Where to eat in an unfamiliar city?” again. S had heard of a Mongolian restaurant called Bali Hai, but after my (frankly) odd experience at Crazy Fire a few years back, I was hesitant to plunge back into that particular culinary fray. Fortunately, it was Wednesday. “Let’s go back and try that Vietnamese place.”

We did, and as we approached the same block crammed shoulder to shoulder with shops and bars, noticed some differences from Monday night. For one, there was no parking readily available - we had to go a block down, past the biker bar - which was now overflowing with shiny Harley and Victory bikes, blondes in black heels cuddled in laps, beer, and laughter. Walking up to Banh’s, we couldn’t believe it. Was this the same place? The line to order was nearly out the door. Every table was filled, including four outdoor ones that magically appeared. The same slight woman was behind the counter, taking orders and delivering food, in four places at once.

Customers, mainly older hippie academic types - lots of sandals and hemp purses and some awesome tye-dye harem pants - slurping away at steaming hot bowls of noodles. As promised, the specials had changed to more traditional Vietnamese dishes. S got the Vegetarian Plate, with tofu and broccoli in a spicy black bean sauce, while K and I opted for hu tieu, a pork and shrimp noodle soup. When our food came out and was handed off to us, I thanked the woman who took our order, saying I was sure it would be delicious. Her eyes lit up with pride, and an impossibly wide grin split her face.

We claimed an outdoor table, and the first question to enter our minds was “Why don’t they do this every night?” There is clear customer demand, but whether a result of scarcity or desire remains unknown. Maybe they don’t want that kind of business every night - it takes effort to make good noodles.

As I opened my plastic bowl, I knew right away my hu tieu would be good. Wide rice noodles topped with crispy caramelized shallots, scallions, garlic, shrimp, cabbage and two kinds of pork, all carefully arranged. The chicken broth was rich and not too salty. Together, it was heaven in a bowl for $6.29. K wandered down to the taqueria and returned with two mango margaritas. The food, the drinks, sitting outdoors in the springtime, a great combination.

If you go:

Banh’s Cuisine
750 9th Street
Durham, NC 27705

Remember: Cash only, they close at 8 PM, only serve authentic Vietnamese on Wednesdays and Saturdays.
It is well worth moving your schedule around to check this place out.

Remember how I told you about the amazing world-travelers Audrey Scott and Daniel Noll, better known as the couple behind Uncornered Market? In between some stateside downtime, Audrey was kind enough to answer a few of my burning questions. Thank you, Audrey! Read on for some fascinating food-and-travel-related tidbits.

A bit about Audrey and Daniel, from their website:

We have been described as adventurers, adaptable professionals, and – most recently – as full-time travelers. Our passions: creativity, personal development, technology, public diplomacy and street food. And yes, we do believe there is a common thread woven between them all.

In December 2006, we left our secure jobs and comfortable lifestyle in Prague, Czech Republic for a creative sabbatical: traveling the world, taking photographs and sharing stories about people from all walks of life.

Uncornered Market – our blog, photo gallery, videos, and audiocasts – is where we share our experiences. We aim to humanize the places we visit, drawing our readers in through photographs and stories, so they connect with people and places they might otherwise never hear about or actively disregard.

You traveled to Antarctica via Gap Adventures - a 14-day round trip beginning from Ushuaia, Argentina. What were the meals aboard the ship (the MS Expedition) like? Were they tailored to the trek (high-caloric and sustaining), Argentine, or more cruise-like? I can’t imagine there was shipboard entertainment, a cash bar, or an all-you-can-eat seafood buffet.

The meals aboard the MS Expedition (120 passengers) to Antarctica were surprisingly diverse and satisfying. Each dinner was a four-course served meal with at least one fish, meat and vegetarian option. As one of our fellow passengers said, “Oh, too many forks!” Examples of some of the mains included New Zealand lamb chops or grilled salmon with roasted vegetables.

You can see a sample meal here.

Breakfast was buffet service, but you could eat something different each morning - from muesli and yogurt to hash browns and fried eggs. Lunch was also buffet service, but it usually included some sort of Asian influenced dish (the restaurant and kitchen crew were Filipino) which we loved. We were also surprised at how much fresh vegetables and and fruit were available on board. Towards the end of the trip, we noticed more canned and frozen produce, but the kitchen staff did an especially good job keeping things fresh at the beginning of the journey.

You’ve mentioned several times that you both rarely if ever get stomach sick - and you make a point of eating food from street stalls and other places frequently touted as unsanitary. How do you ease in your digestive system to the cuisine of a different country - are there any rituals or consistencies you hold?

At this point we likely have a sea of bacteria swimming in our stomachs that help us tackle street food in different countries. Usually, we try to ease ourselves into local street food by starting first with canteens or simple cafeterias and soups (boiled=killed bacteria) and then moving on to the more adventurous stuff. What usually gets people are the fresh unpeeled vegetables, herbs or fruit. We shared some more tips on how to travel the world without “hugging the bowl” here.

Many of your posts on food get right down to business - what was in it and how did it taste compared to something more widely available. I love that. Your writing conveys both a broad and deep, almost instinctual knowledge of food - how was that knowledge cultivated and shaped over time? Were you both always adventurous eaters, or is your openness to food a result of your travels? Is there anything you won’t eat OR are there foods you actively seek out?

Our understanding of food is fueled almost entirely on curiosity — trying new cuisines, exploring different taste combinations, and understanding the connection of food to culture. Not to mention, food can be at the same time both scientifically and artistically complex and also astonishingly simple. And to appreciate it in full is often an exercise in marshaling all of one’s senses.

We were relatively adventurous eaters before this journey, but our travels have definitely made us more aware, more open, and perhaps even more intrepid when it comes to exploring local cuisines, especially those that feature a street food element. We often ask street food or market vendors about what they are selling and how they prepare certain dishes. Not only do these conversations provide more context about the cuisine, but they often mark the beginning of a longer conversation that wends its way through food to culture to family to politics. Food is a terrific — and non-threatening — way to start a conversation with locals.

We are less adventurous when it comes to trying every part of an animal. Our mantra is: “mystery vegetables are safer than mystery meat.” If we can’t identify animal bits and parts in a dish, we’ll usually opt for vegetarian fare instead. And at the end of the day, it has to be tasty and satisfying. We’ve tried our share of animal mystery bits that haven’t passed that test.

How was it for you both to eat in the States again? Did you go out of your way to cook your own meals and not eat at restaurants, or was there some specific food craving right away to be sated?

When we return to the States we usually crave ethnic foods that we haven’t been able to get. For example, after spending the last 15 months in Latin America, we wanted Asian foods (Indian, Thai, Japanese, Afghan). But, we also really miss good deli sandwiches when we travel. And, of course, bagels. In so many parts of the word, breakfast includes some sort of bread, butter and jam and we start to miss cereal for breakfast.

What surprises us each time we return to the States is the diversity in available cuisines. Particularly in urban and suburban population centers you can usually find a dozen different cuisines within several blocks. This is definitely one of America’s culinary strengths.

What we don’t like about eating in restaurants in the U.S.: the size of the portions. They often border on the absurd and unhealthy.

What was one of your more challenging eating experiences?

A Ramadan goat feast in the mountains of Kyrgyzstan eating something called five-fingers.

On the lighter and more pleasant side, Dan once ventured into eating bugs in Battambang, Cambodia. He expressed an interest in some locals eating bugs and so they invited him over to share their bag of palmetto bugs and sugar cane juice. Before we knew it, Dan had become an honorary member of the family and we were invited back to their house for a Buddhist wedding blessing family the next day. The bugs weren’t particularly tasty, but the whole experience made up for it. Here’s the full story.

It seems you’ve travelled quite a bit throughout Central and South America. How widely does the cuisine vary region to region? Are there across the board staples owing to geographic location?

When we traveled throughout much of Asia, the cuisine changed noticeably as we crossed borders (e.g., Nepal to India or Thailand to Vietnam). Not so in Latin America - there are a lot of similarities throughout the region, particularly between the sub-regions (e.g., Central American countries vs. Andean South American countries).

In Central America, Guatemala stole the culinary show (note: we did not travel through Mexico so we cannot compare) with local dishes like pepian and delicious street tacos. Homemade corn tortillas were available on almost every corner. Rice and beans were a staple, but you could find other dishes to vary things up. And Guatemala’s Caribbean coast features Garifuna (Afro-Caribbean) favorites such as tapado.

In Honduras, El Salvador and Nicaragua the cuisine became less varied and relies on tortillas, fried chicken/meats and rice with beans. The sheer quantity of fried food can make the culinary scene seem a little bleak at times. We highlight some of our favorite dishes from Central America, including pupusas and baleadas in our Central American food roundup.

In South America, Andean areas of Ecuador, Peru and Bolivia rely mainly on corn, meat and potatoes. It makes sense of course as these products are easily grown - Peru boasts something like 2000 varieties of potatoes! Once you get into Argentina and Chile, you find more steaks, empanadas, pizzas, pastas and other European-influenced Italian-style food.

Without a doubt, the culinary highlight of South America is Peru. While many people know about ceviche, many are not aware of other delightful dishes such as tiradito (raw fish “cooked” with lime with a bit of ginger, chili pepper, and sometimes served with creamed pepper sauces), causa (mashed potatoes stuffed with seafood, avocado and a creamy cocktail sauce), scallops parmesan, rocotta rellano (stuffed hot peppers) and so much more. Peru’s geography encompasses coastal areas (great for seafood), mountain ranges (good for potatoes and other vegetables) and Amazon areas (fantastic fruit), meaning that the selection of ingredients is impressive. More information on Peruvian cuisine.

You frequently mention enjoying wine - hello, oenophiles! Your post on Bolivian wine was so interesting - I’m keeping my eyes out for Bolivia to give Chilean carmenere a run for its money! Any other standout wines you’ve encountered on your travels that you would recommend, if available stateside?

We’re not certain that Bolivian wine is ready to give Chilean carmenere a run for its money, but it was accessible (read: not absurdly expensive like Uruguayan wine-tasting, for example).

During our visit to Argentina, we made a point to visit three major wine regions - Patagonia, Cafayate and Mendoza. Each area had it’s own specialty - Pinot Noir in Patagonia, Torrontes in Cafayate and Malbec in Mendoza. Although Malbec is not our favorite varietal, we found the range of wines available in Mendoza to be the best in Argentina. Argentina also helped us to become more familiar with varietals like Petit Verdot and Bonarda. Though those are often used in blends, we actually enjoyed them in single-varietal bottles. The 2005 Amauta II Cabernet Sauvignon - Merlot blend from El Porvenir vineyards in the Cafayate region is impressive. From Mendoza, check out Carmelo Patti or on the more accessible end of the range, Alta Vista wines. We’ll be doing a multi-part series on tasting and selecting Argentine wines soon, so stay tuned!

I completely agree with you about the versatility of sweetened condensed milk. What’s one of your favorite ways to use it in an everyday way?

When your only choice for coffee each morning is Nescafe powder, condensed milk can really make a difference. When we traveled throughout China, we packed a tube of condensed milk (yes, they have tubes of condensed milk!) and a container of Nescafe. It’s not as sophisticated as Vietnamese or Thai coffee, but it does make Nescafe drinkable. This may gross out coffee connoisseur - and we’d also prefer regular espresso coffee if we had a choice - but this does the trick when you’re desperate.

Magic Bars (or 7-layer bars) — one of whose layers is condensed milk — is a favorite dessert.

Want to know more? Click here for an interview with Daniel and Audrey about their travel photography.

Welcome to Monday, folks. A few things:

May is Food Allergy Awareness Month.

Last year I wrote Food allergies 101, and my friend Rachel guest posted Eating well with food allergies. I recommend them both if you are interested in learning more about this confusing and often frustrating topic.

This year, Rachel has issued a challenge: Eat a Mile in My Shoes. Pick a food, something in the allergen Top 8 - peanuts, tree nuts, milk, eggs, fish, shellfish, wheat, soy - and avoid it for an entire week as though you were life-threateningly allergic. Read labels, talk to restaurant staff, do some research. Experience the challenge of what being food-allergic to one food feels like, and gain some perspective. Click through to Rachel’s blog for more info, and if you do decide to take the challenge, I’d love to hear about your experience.

Mark your calendar - this is big news!

On Thursday, May 27 at 7:00 PM, the folks behind Uncornered Market (couple Daniel Noll and Audrey Scott) are coming to Black Mountain Presbyterian Church to share their story about the last exciting 3-4 years of their life. In the last year+, they have traveled to Peru, Bolivia, Antarctica, Thailand, Chile, the Galapagos Islands, Guatemala, Burma, and more. Our area is home to some of their family, so Asheville is doubly lucky that they are stopping by during their time in the States. I can’t wait to hear them speak about their travels. Help get the word out. You don’t want to miss this!

And, in less-big news…

I discovered a new favorite party/potluck dish - bacon-wrapped, cream cheese stuffed Medjool dates! I made 20 of them for our housewarming on Saturday night and they were gone in no time. Sweet, salty, hint of caramel, chewy texture…pairs well with Riesling.

So, I’m moved. We’re moved. I’m still adjusting to the ‘we.’ To everything, really.

Penguin didn’t take long to get settled. It took her a minute to get the hang of the stairs, but once she realized it’s basically her personal play space AND that she can announce her presence by stomping down them, she relaxed.

What I wouldn’t give to be a cat some days.

While Penguin lazes in the sun, I’m over here being exasperated with the harsh reality of an electric stove. I keep telling myself - “But Leigh - you have a full-sized oven now! That cookie sheet you bought six years ago finally fits somewhere!” Then I burn eggs or overcook spinach and feel like an idiot. People used to tell me how intimidated they were by my gas stove, and here I am - stymied by electric. If 9 is boiling, then 6 should be a simmer, right? Wrong. More like 7.75, but only after the water re-boils after adding whatever it is you’re cooking to the water. Stupid numbers. Give me straight-up fire any day.

During the move, as I was breaking down my old kitchen, I realized I wasn’t about to take 200+ word magnets with me. I never messed with them, but friends would, and I’d find cute ditties on the front of my freezer door that made me smile. Some sweet, some inspiring, many downright dirty. I took pictures of the ones that were left so I could remember them.

Here’s one, origin unknown. (If you’re the author, fess up so I can give credit.)
Makes me smile every time.

The new set-up feels awkward. I’ve bumped my hand on the fridge many times reaching for spices that aren’t there. I’ve forgotten about the spices above the stove so often that I now have some duplicates. I’ve had to move things around, merry-go-round fashion, until they fit and feel right. Here. No…here. There. Well, that’s inconvenient. There? Yes.

Two weeks in, I’m mostly familiar with where things are, even if it’s a little strange to me that we have two silverware drawers and not a single junk drawer. We have junk baskets. Don’t ask.

On Cinco de Mayo, I made mango margaritas (yum!) and tried artichokes two ways - one steamed and served with lemon butter, one stuffed with a thyme/carrot/celery/breadcrumb mixture and broiled.

More recently, I made something that began as spinach and chickpea curry, inspired by a straightforward Saveur recipe. It turned into something completely different when I couldn’t find all of my spices. Something completely delicious. I served it over buttered toast, which was the perfect companion for such a textured and savory dish. Simple, hearty, but still light enough not to feel like a weight in your stomach. The edges of the bread staying crunchy, while the middle soaked up the savory sauce. Oh…so good.

Spinach and Chickpeas on Toast (apologies to Saveur - this is way better)
serves 2

Ingredients
1/2 bag frozen spinach or 5 ounces fresh baby spinach
1/2 sweet onion, sliced in thin half moons
2 T butter
4-5 cloves garlic, minced
1 1/2 tsp. ground turmeric
1/2 tsp. smoked paprika, hot or sweet (more to taste)
1/2 tsp. ground coriander
1/4 tsp. cayenne pepper
1 14-oz. can tomatoes, undrained
1 14-oz can garbanzo beans, drained and rinsed
1/2 cup water
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Juice of 1/2 lemon
Balsamic or red wine vinegar to taste
Good, thick bread for toasting

Directions
Mix spices together in small bowl and set aside.
Cook spinach using your desired method (I boil in 1/2 cup water for ~ 2 minutes). Drain and squeeze out all excess liquid.
Heat butter in a medium saucepan over medium-low heat. Saute onions until translucent.
Add garlic and saute 2 more minutes, until fragrant.
Add tomatoes, chickpeas, spice mixture and water. Cover and cook for 20 minutes. Add salt and pepper, taste.
Stir in spinach, lemon juice and red wine/balsamic vinegar. Taste.
Turn off heat and set aside, covered.
Make your toast, buttering liberally.
Spoon spinach chickpea mixture over toast, breathe deeply, and enjoy.

Things have been quiet around here the last few weeks or so.
You may have noticed…

At the beginning of April I jetted (well, drove) off to Chicago for a whirlwind indulgent vacation. Upon returning, life flipped upside down as the decision was made to move out of my cozy, adorable apartment and into a two-story townhouse with my boyfriend. If you’re at all curious about my thoughts on that, you can read more about it here.

So.

Moving.

I hate moving.

The second I started packing things into boxes, whether to give away or take with me, I stopped cooking. I made one halfhearted effort last Sunday when I roasted some asparagus and plopped a fried egg on it, calling it dinner. Food has transformed from something I strongly desire and appreciate to a necessity if I’m going to have the energy to pack another damn box. For example…

Things I have eaten in the last 48 hours:

~ kind of bad pad thai
~ really good saffron rice and black beans with sweet potatoes and cabbage made with love by someone else
~ breakfasts at Corner Kitchen and Rise ‘n Shine
~ copious amounts of coffee from wherever I can get it
~ Greek stromboli and a caesar salad from Marco’s
~ several Julie’s Organic ice cream sandwiches
~ chocolate peanut butter Haagen Daaz
~ tortilla chips, salsa, hummus, crackers

Life will likely continue in this vein until next week at the earliest. Happily, I’m moving to a space with an excellent kitchen - decent counter space, lots of cabinets/storage and a full size oven.

What about you? How do your eating habits change when you move? Any suggestions?

Salad
Arugula, sliced strawberries, toasted walnuts, crumbled ricotta salata, Meyer lemon vinaigrette

Toasted baguette and olive oil

Entrée
Spaghetti carbonara
asparagus, peas, portobello mushroom, seared tuna

2009 Sauvignon Blanc, Cupcake Vineyards, NZ/CA

Dessert
Crepes
Meyer lemon curd, strawberries, powdered sugar, brown sugar, chocolate drizzle

After about the eighth post I saw praising the taste, the texture, the variability, the near sainthood status of kale chips, I reluctantly decided to try them. Why? ‘Cause I love kale. I really love kale with a ton of garlic, lightly sautéed, with a squeeze of lemon. Cooking greens to death is fine for collards, if served alongside some barbeque, but I like my kale barely wilted, eaten from the pan while steaming hot. Kale’s a one trick pony: heat and eat, which is fine by me. Add it to soup, sure, but you’re not going to find me pureeing kale and mixing it into lemonade (looking at you, Greenlife). Given that, I understand the urgent desire of some to elevate kale beyond its humble, reliable role.

Enter kale chips.

To make them, wash and thoroughly dry your kale, emphasis on thorough. Any amount of water on the kale leaves once they hit the oven will complicate the process and the leaves won’t crisp as nicely. Drizzle or spritz with olive oil and sprinkle with salt. Place in a hot oven (~350°) for 8 minutes or less, remove to the sound of angels singing and the feel of your virtue being restored. Cool briefly, but eat right away.

You’ve seen those Snapea Crisps at the store, right? Those just-as-bad-as-any-other-snack-food posing as something more healthy. They are pretty fun to eat, with a crunch balanced by a hint of salt and vague green taste. But satisfying? Nope. That was my initial impression upon eating a kale chip, “Damn. This tastes exactly like a Snapea Crisp.” Light as air, redeemed only by its pointyness, the kale chips disappeared into my stomach. I kept expecting the taste to improve, but it didn’t. Everything I love about kale, the dense fiber-y texture, the mmm-inducing chewiness, was absent. I probably used more olive oil making the kale chips than I do in sautéing.

At the last, I frowned at the remaining chip. “You’re a disappointment. I’m going back to the old way of eating kale.”
The kale chip said nothing, smug in the way of someone who says, “I’ll just have a salad. Dressing on the side.”

Bitch, please. Have a cupcake.

Thanks to FB @ Fabulously Broke for not drinking the Kale Kool-Aid (Lemonade?) and causing me to question those that have gone before.

Looking up one morning, I saw birds, swooping and chattering in the trees and squirrels out in force.
Is it true?
Could it be….spring?

As this week unfolded, my hope shifted from cautious to insistent. Spring? Spring! There are trees with buds on them, ready to bloom into a riot of flowers. Daffodills are up, turning their brief, eager faces to the sun. Restaurants are attending to their neglected outside patios, with servers scrubbing, sweeping and rolling up the heavy plastic insulators. People are filling Asheville’s sidewalks again, and the excitement is tangible. After such a long, dreary winter, everyone is ready to put the s-word behind them and get out and about doing spring things.

Here’s what I’m most looking forward to about spring:

~ Farmers’ Markets! - North Asheville Tailgate Market and Asheville City Market open for the season on Saturday, April 17. If you can’t wait that long, Greenlife Grocery is hosting their pre-season tailgate market THIS Sunday, March 28 from 9:00 AM - 1:00 PM. They’ll also be sampling goodies, including beers from Pisgah Brewing from 2:00 - 5:00 PM.

~ Spring produce - Green, fresh, bright, local produce - Ramps, asparagus, strawberries, fiddleheads, radishes, delicate spring leeks, arugula and more! The thought of my counter overflowing with green, leafy abundance makes my mouth water.

~ The return of creativity - Spring vibrates with liveliness, encouraging me to put down the butter and focus on ingredients. Thinly sliced radishes, dusted with salt. Roasted asparagus with a fried egg. Strawberry arugula salad, dressed in balsamic vinaigrette and topped with shaved Parmesan.

~ Happy people, sweet babies and friendly dogs - Everyone is ecstatic, and it shows. Bikers zoom along, babies head out with their mommas for walks and dogs on leashes have their noses in the air, wagging excited tails. I can’t walk a block without my face breaking into a grin after passing yet more adorableness or asking to pet a cute puppy. Daww…warm fuzzies, Asheville.

~ White wines and bubbly - The minute the weather warms, I start looking at the other half of the wine list, craving pinot grigio and fantasizing about porch-sitting and rosé drinking. Bellinis and mimosas, too.

~ Ice cream! - The Hop just introduced Mango Balsamic ice cream with some help from Nine Mile. I can’t wait to try it. And, sweet serendipity, they have Salted Caramel ice cream too! Ever since I tried Molly Moon’s Salted Caramel in Seattle, it was love at first bite.

~ Eating outside - Breakfast at Sunny Point, a glass of wine at Sante, dinner at Curra’s, even drinks and dessert at The Admiral…

~ Outdoor events - The Asheville Herb Festival is coming up Friday April 30, Saturday, May 1 and Sunday, May 2. Still two months away, but Downtown After Five returns on Friday, May 21! And mark your calendars now - on Saturday, June 19 and Sunday, June 20 Mountain Farm is hosting a Lavender Festival! Mmm…

What’s got you all “ramped up” about spring?

It was my friend Dan who enlightened me to the difference between short ribs and spare ribs. One blustery night last fall, he called excitedly - he was Braising! Short Ribs! Dinner that night would represent a pinnacle of achievement in terms of the taste : effort ratio.

As he continued on about the ease of braising, how tender the meat becomes, etc., I bit my lip. Dan’s a natural talent in the kitchen, keeper of the world’s best creme brulee recipe, a creative bartender, and a repository of all kinds of useful culinary knowledge. I was about to embarrass myself horribly and lose whatever credibility I’d gained over the last year.

“Dan…?” I said hesitantly. “What are short ribs? Are they like bone-in pork chops?”

To his credit, his silence was brief. The answer came readily, with no laughter behind it. “No! They’re beef - short ribs come from cows. You’re thinking of spare ribs, which come from pigs.”

Short ribs. The conversation stuck in my mind long after it ended. I don’t cook much meat at home, beyond an occasional roasted chicken (Goop style!), meatballs for pasta, or a bit of bacon or pancetta. When a red meat craving hits full force, typically a cheeseburger will satisfy. But something about short ribs appealed to my inner food philosophy, kind of perfectly. In a way, short means little. And a little goes a long way.

Leafing through Bon Appetit a few weeks later, I lighted on the recipe I had to try - Braised Short Ribs with Red Wine Gravy and Swiss Chard. I snipped it and stored it away safely, waiting for the right time.

The right time took its sweet time, but during the last freak snowstorm (please let the snow be over), I was fortunate enough to be housesitting on top of a mountain. And you know how much I love borrowed kitchens. The timing couldn’t have been better - I had just finished reading Tea Austen Weaver’s The Butcher and the Vegetarian, wherein she details her journey through the land of meat, begun for health reasons. In the book, Tea toggles between the observation and the experience of selecting, handling, and cooking meat. I unwrapped the short ribs (Hickory Nut Gap Farm!) from their brown paper package, and an understanding of Tea’s position dawned immediately. The word visceral flashed through my mind as the first challenge presented itself - the short ribs were a slightly longish rib. I hadn’t been paying close attention at the butcher counter and thought that short ribs would come pre-sliced.

Somewhere in Charlotte, Dan is laughing.

I picked the slab of meat up and turned it over, examining it from every angle, pondering my plan of attack. In the end, it became a hack job and I had six rib-like hunks of varying size. Fortunately, when it comes to braising, size doesn’t matter. Braising is ultra low-maintenance and difficult to screw up. All the work is front-loaded, more so if you spread the prep over two days, which I would recommend if you’re making this a weeknight meal. This stands as one of the tastiest meals I’ve made to date, and I’m glad to share it as a success. It’s hearty without the “Ohmigod I just ate a whole cow” feeling. Bonus: Works as a great compromise meal if one person is a meat lover and the other is a meat tolerator.

This recipe is adapted to make 2 servings, the original serves 6. So if you’re cooking for a crowd, just click the link. And if anyone has any advice on cutting up short ribs, please drop me a line.

Braised Short Ribs with Red Wine Gravy, Swiss Chard, and Garlic-Cheddar Mashed Potatoes
adapted from Bon Appetit (October 2009)
serves 2, with minimal leftovers

Ingredients

Short Ribs:
1.5-2 pounds short ribs
Coarse kosher salt
2 Tablespoons all purpose flour
1/4 cup olive oil, divided (1/8 cup = 2 Tablespoons)
1.5 cups onions, chopped
1.5 cups turnips, peeled and cubed
1 cup carrots, chopped
1 cup celery, chopped
4-5 garlic cloves, peeled and smashed
1/2 cup sun-dried tomatoes (not packed in oil)
4-5 fresh thyme sprigs
2-3 fresh sage sprigs, or one Tablespoon dried sage
3 bay leaves
1 1/2 cups dry red wine
4-5 cups low-sodium chicken broth
Balsamic vinegar (optional; strongly recommended)

Swiss Chard:
olive oil
2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
1 bunch Swiss chard, center ribs removed, leaves cut crosswise into inch-thick ribbons

Garlic-Cheddar Mashed Potatoes:
4-5 Red or Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and diced
2-3 Tablespoons butter, cubed
2 cloves garlic, minced
1/4 cup grated cheddar cheese
1/2 cup whole milk

Directions

Short Ribs
Preheat oven to 350°F. Place ribs on baking sheet; sprinkle with coarse salt and pepper. Sprinkle flour over; toss to coat.

Heat 2 Tablespoons oil in a large, heavy, wide pot over medium-high heat. Working in batches, cook ribs until browned all over, about 8 minutes per batch. Return ribs to sheet. Wipe out pot.

Add remaining 2 Tablespoons oil to pot. Add onions and next 4 ingredients; cook until tender and slightly browned, stirring often, 10-12 minutes. Add sun-dried tomatoes and next 3 ingredients; stir to coat.

Return ribs to pot, placing atop the vegetables, on sides (vertical/narrow) to fit in single layer. Add wine. Simmer until slightly reduced, about 5 minutes. Add broth; cover and bring to simmer.

Transfer pot to oven and braise until ribs are tender, about 2 hours. Remove from oven and let stand, covered, 15 minutes. Carefully transfer ribs to large bowl, keeping meat attached to bones if possible (some bones may separate from meat). Remove herb sprigs.

Pass all braising liquid and vegetables through food mill into large bowl; return to pot.

(If you don’t have a food mill, don’t despair! Just use a metal mesh strainer and a big spoon to extract as much of the liquid from the vegetables, then discard vegetables. Gravy won’t be as thick, but it will be just as tasty.)

Spoon fat from surface. Season gravy to taste with salt and pepper and a few drops of balsamic vinegar, if desired. Rewarm gravy. Return ribs to gravy; cover and simmer to rewarm, about 5 minutes.

Dan starts his short ribs the night before, refrigerating them overnight and finishing them in the oven the next night. The standout benefit of that to me is it allows you to easily skim the fat off whatever gravy you make when you take them out of the fridge. Skimming fat from hot liquid is a straight-up pain in the ass.

If you want to finish these the next day, finish the initial braise and make the gravy, then refrigerate uncovered, until cool, then cover overnight. The next night, skim the fat, preheat your oven to 300 degrees and simmer ribs and gravy uncovered for 30 minutes until warmed through.

Swiss Chard
Heat olive oil in large pot or skillet over medium-high heat. Add garlic; stir 30 seconds. Add half of chard; toss to wilt, adding water by tablespoonfuls if dry, about 1 minute. Add remaining chard. Toss until wilted but bright green, about 3 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Garlic-Cheddar Mashed Potatoes
Bring a large pot of water to a boil and salt. Add the potatoes and boil until fork tender, about 15-20 minutes. Drain the potatoes, add garlic and mash. Add the milk and butter slowly as you mash. Mix in cheddar cheese, add salt and pepper to taste.

Divide ribs among plates. Divide chard among plates. Spoon gravy over ribs and serve, passing remaining gravy alongside.